Up at 5:00 am - best night’s sleep of the trek so far. Rolled over
and caught another half hour, amazingly enough. Up at 5:40, 36
degrees.
Did the wakeup routine at 6:00. Neil not feeling too well, but said
he was OK (might be the altitude; we’re over 10,000 feet here).
Mike,
Hugh, Rick and I handled the bear-bags. As I headed down to the
bear-bags
(about 2 minutes ahead of the others), I heard an elk calling down the
draw
- but I couldn’t see him, and that was his only call. Fairly
leisurely
packup this morning. Luke’s boot look good, but the trail will tell
of course. Another 9 1/2 miles today, but most of it is at very high
altitude. Just as we were leaving, I had a sudden onset of G.I.
upset
- guess I drank too much cold water too fast while camelling up. Let
most of the Crew go while I completed an urgent latrine call. Got
going
10 minutes after the rest of crew, with Matt, Chris and Rick. A
stiff
uphill to start, still nicely wooded however. At a fork in the trail
(Moss Lake Trail to the left, Bears Ears Trail to the right), the rest of
the guys over-marked the correct way (Bear’s Ears) with an arrow of rocks,
a bandanna, and a cairn - I think we got it!
We caught the rest of the Crew just after they stopped for breakfast, a
nice
spot on the requisite sun-lit rocks overlooking the valley and back
towards
Valentine Lake. Fruit Newtons, raisins, mueslix cereal, with Pilot
crackers and gorp for trail snacks. Two sub-groups from the
midwestern
crew passed as we were finishing up, and we soon followed.
Unfortunately,
we then got ourselves disoriented - a myriad of silly mistakes:
getting
fooled by a false summit, not orienting the map, and misreading the
terrain.
I headed up the hill on the main trail, looking for the pass and the
Lizard
Head Trail (over Windy Mountain), but I stopped 5 minutes too soon.
We ended up crossing the valley on a faint trail (*not* the Lizard Head
Trail),
and ended up on a ridge overlooking Valentine Lake and Washakie Pass
before
we finally got it figured out. Back across to the Bears Ears Trail
again. By the time we got back to where we first got disoriented, we
had lost 2 1/2 hours and a liter of water each. Not surprisingly,
everyone
was pretty aggravated, but no real harm done.
Lesson learned, we headed back up to the actual pass, arriving at 11:45
am,
and stopped for lunch (right up against a sunlit rock face to our left,
which
got us out of the wind). Still pretty windy and distinctly nippy;
about
11,500 feet here. Saw the last 4 members of the midwestern crew
hiking
on the Lizard Head Trail on the high ridge to our right - so at least now
we had our actual trail confirmed (and obviously, it helps to have been
here
before, like they have). We saddled up at 12:15, and quickly reached
the actual trail intersect. Ted and Mark headed straight to see if
there was any view on the other side of the saddle (yes, but not much -
just
a high altitude bench with a broken ridge (Mount Chauvenet) at the far
end).
I took
a photo of Al at the trail
sign
(there was a large elk backbone skeleton sitting at the base of the
sign).
Right turn on the Lizard Head Trail, and a steep uphill past Cathedral
rock.
Not surprisingly, Windy Mountain was indeed very windy - there was no tree
cover whatsoever, and the trail was completely exposed. Plus we were
feeling some altitude effects too (we were just under 12,000 feet in a few
sections here). Great views back towards Washakie Pass and the rest
of range (Buffalo Head was directly west). Took multiple crew photos
with some spectacular backdrops.
Eventually, we took a sweeping left turn, crested a mini-pass (with a
trail
marker listing 11,820 feet, the highest point on the hike), and caught our
first view of the Cirque of the Towers. Spectacular! A
yellow-bellied
marmot
watched us suspiciously from a
nearby
rock pile. Mark took a few Crew photos, and we headed down the
ridge. As we noted on the stretch after Washakie Pass yesterday, the
trail was obvious in some stretches
but
cairn-to-cairn in others. "Big Sky" country - felt like you were
walking on top of the world. During one water break, we took a few
minutes to help Luke with a splinter. Passed a young couple from
Wisconsin,
going the other way, then (much later) two women from the Twin Cities area
of Minnesota (they had a very long way to go with not a lot of hours left
in the day; I gave them a quiet warning, but they didn’t seem
concerned).
Finally got to the end of Windy Mountain, with a
great view of the Cirque valley laid out in front of us.
Very steep and difficult downhill from 3:00 – 4:15.
[Photos:
1,
2] Some
nice flowers
in various spots alongside the trail, but that was about the only nice
thing
about it. Even using my walking stick, I slipped and
semi-fell.
Then Ted fell and cut a knee, fortunately not too badly. Mike
slipped
multiple times, but managed to remain upright and uninjured. Water
was a bit of a problem (breakfast was many hours ago at this point); we
shared
around as people started to run out. Passed the trail intersection
to either Bear Lake or an un-named companion lake next to Bear, and were
soon into a much nicer forest, having many trees with oddly twisted
trunks.
Took the North Fork Trail to the Lizard Head Meadows area. Passed
the
midwestern group, already set up in their camp. We found a fairly
nice
place to the right of the trail about halfway up the meadows, but Ted and
Hugh talked us out of that one in favor of another site about 200 yards
further
down, that had a bit more open space for tenting. Elevation 10,020
feet, so we have dropped 1800 feet from the mini-pass on Windy
Mountain.
There was a small herd of horses in the meadow between our camp and the
stream,
being watched over by two wranglers and a dog. Oddly, the horses
were
not only hobbled, but also had very large (and noisy) bear bells, and we
had a distant musical chorus for the rest of our stay. Walking out
into the meadow gave a real feel for the "Cirque," with huge gray spires
reaching up all around us (at least half a dozen major peaks, ranging from
12,000 to just over 13,000 feet in elevation). This is considered to
be one of the crown jewels of the Wind River Range, and it was easy to see
why. Mitchell Peak (our intended climb the next day) was right
across
the meadow from our campsite. It looked doable but was clearly going
to be no picnic.
We went ahead and set up camp, with the tents dotted here and there among
the trees. Each tree and even each shrub seemed to have its own
copious
load of dead branches attached, somewhat complicating setup. This
was
probably the most dangerous area with respect to fire hazard that we had
camped in so far - in fact, it may have been the most dangerous fire risk
area I had ever camped in, and it was easy to see how a forest fire could
easily get out of control here. Real care needed. Hugh and
Thomas
handled dinner and cleanup tonight - everyone else went ahead and cleaned
clothes (and ourselves) at another conveniently adjacent stream.
Chris
set up the bear-bags. Dinner at 6:30 - black bean soup, chicken TVP
with corn and cheese, Stove-Top stuffing, and bug juice (where did Ted
come
up with these recipes). Dessert was a special concoction of the now
dreaded dehydrated apples cooked with sugar and cinnamon. Too much
food - turned out to be our first meal of the trek with leftovers (we
bagged
it up for carryout). Discussed Mitchell Peak as we finished up
dinner
- I warned our more gung-ho climbers not to "sell" the climb to the guys
who were reluctant (as they had already been trying to do). After
dinner,
Chris had a fox run right by him during his "constitutional."
Al, Matt and I headed back out into the meadow to scan and critically
appraise
Mitchell Peak. Todd, Luke, Charles, and Chris joined us a few
minutes
later, so we had our whole climbing crew there. Talked over the
necessary
equipment, clothing, and expected route (up the draw about 2/3rd’s the way
up to the saddle, then cut right to take one of two promising ascent
routes
to the actual peak). We couldn’t see the last stretch from below,
but
Al’s guidebook offered assurance that it was scalable. But as I
warned
the guys, it ain’t gettin’ up a steep climb that’s the hard part, it’s
coming
back down - so we could get 90 percent of the way, and be forced to turn
around. Bear bags at 8:15, and bed at 8:30
[Picture of the
Cirque of the Towers
at Sunset]; the mosquitoes came out
in force again as dusk came on and the breeze faded. Wrote diary in
the tent until about 9:15, and crashed.