Woke at 1:00 am, half frozen, and tossed and turned til 2:00, then gave up
and put on my fleece; Rick was also semi-awake. Once I warmed up
again,
I slept from around 3:00 til 5:15 or so. Up at 5:40, dressed heavy
for the first time on the trek, packed up and out the door at 5:50.
Mark also up. I did the wake-up routine for the upper camp, while
Mark
did the lower camp. Got the bear-bags down, but the rope snagged on
the tree. Chris climbed up to get it down. 28 degrees, and it
felt like it too; I was really cold! My rain parka was covered with
little frozen droplets, confirming it was below freezing. Our packup
was slower as we carefully split out gear for Rick, Chris, Al and
Mark.
Our scale broke altogether, about halfway through our pack weighings, so
it was harder to divvy up the weight fairly. I ended up with three
tents, about 43 pounds or so, felt heaver than that, or I felt weaker this
morning (probably still weary after yesterday’s ascent - and losing 2
hours
of sleep last night didn’t help, either). But it’s only about 5
miles
today, and Jackass Pass is a much easier climb, and at a much lower
elevation,
than Washakie Pass. Did our circle-up and exercises, then I spent
about
10 minutes re-lacing Luke's boots, which (despite the repair job) were
separating
again, but not badly (yet).
Off to Lonesome Lake on the North Fork Trail at 7:20, under clear blue
skies.
The sun lit the trail in areas here and there, which felt good. I
struggled
some on the hike, even though it was mostly level trail, but kept up (I
was
still pretty stiff, even after the stretching routine). We stopped
for breakfast on some sunlit rocks overlooking Lonesome Lake, with a
direct
view of Pingora Peak (a huge pinnacle across the lake). This was
probably
the most spectacular of many fine breakfast views; Pingora Peak is one of
the premier climbs in the Wind River Range, and in fact we could hear (but
couldn’t see) climbers somewhere on the face. Mark varied from the
usual Philmont Grace and gave a moving grace on the fellowship we had
enjoyed.
For some reason, I didn’t have much appetite this morning, but forced
myself
to eat. Breakfast was Pop Tarts, mueslix, and cashews, all of which
rapidly disappeared; Todd didn’t get much on this morning’s scavenging
visit
to our crew! The trail snacks for today were Harvest and fruit bars,
and everyone (but me) had to resist eating them immediately. As we
were finishing, a group of "at risk" youth came by with their counselors,
heading towards Lizard Head Meadows - we guessed they must have been
camped
somewhere on the far side of the lake. After cleanup, everyone
insisted
on
personal "mommy shots" with Pingora in
the background. Then the Scouts dragged me in for a group photo
(just them and me) - hope it turns out.
We finally got going around 9:00 am, soon running into a solo hiker coming
the other way; he was from Seattle, but had lived in Baltimore as a
youth.
We continued up the draw towards Jackass Pass, but it was quickly evident
we were on an auxiliary trail - the main trail was up the ridge to our
left
somewhere. Some of the adult group dynamics while straightening this
out were not good (shame on us), but we ended up on the right trail
shortly
enough, at an
overlook by the
(well-named)
Arrowhead Lake. [If this lake was at Philmont, it would be world
famous, at least among Scouts!] This turned out to be the actual
pass,
at roughly 10,800 feet. We grabbed a few shots by the almost
illegible Shoshone/Bridger boundary marker sign, and continued on; for
some reason, the trail changed names at the pass, from the North Fork
Trail
to the Big Sandy Pass Trail. Well, regardless of its name, it was a
truly terrible trail for the next mile, passing Arrowhead Lake, then on to
North Lake; plenty of sharp ups and downs, and lots of cairn-to-cairn
hiking.
Just before we reached North Lake, we stopped most of the Crew for a
packs-off
break, and Rick, Chris, Al and Mark broke away for a sprint to the
trailhead,
and were quickly out of sight. We followed about 10 minutes
later.
Very tiny cairns on the trail here for some reason, but we didn’t have
time
to repair or improve them, plus we weren't positive this was the best
trail
anyway. Burro prints (small horseshoes) and burro crap on both sides
of the pass proved that someone had gotten a burro (or maybe a llama or
small
mule?) over this trail, despite the "no park animals" edict of the
National
Forestry Service. We pushed on to North Lake, passing a young adult
group with many attractive females heading our way with fishing
gear/hiking
stuff, forgot to ask where they were from; they said they were heading to
Lonesome Lake - if so, they were awfully lightly dressed and had very poor
footwear (most were in sandals and sneakers) for the upcoming hike and
return.
We just kind of shook our heads at this and kept going.
Lunch for us was around 12:15, after North Lake and within sight (finally)
of "good" trail. Crackers, peanut butter, cheese "Squeezers," dried
fruit, and beef jerky. My appetite was still pretty low, so I ate
rather
thinly. We were passed by several additional groups heading up towards the
pass while we were eating. On the trail at 12:45, one sharp
down,
one sharp up, and finally "good trail" very reminiscent of Philmont.
Quickly down to Big Sandy Lake - a just spectacular lake stretching well
down the valley. The trail split as we reached the shoreline, with
the Little Sandy Trail cutting to the left; we stayed to the right on the
Big Sandy Trail and worked about one fourth of the way down the shoreline
before selecting a site (a big sloping meadow) to the right,
around 100-150 yards from a bear box. Elevation 9,750 feet - the
first time in several days we’ve been below 10,000 feet. We had
heard
from the couple at the Scab Creek Trailhead that bear-boxes had been
installed
here due to some ongoing problems - this was the first one we had seen on
the whole trek. As usual, the box was half full of trash (a
perpetual
problem with these things), which I decided I would carry out the next
day.
[Amazing that people can carry heavy stuff in, but can’t carry light stuff
out.]
The meadow had horse manure everywhere, but we found two decent camping
spots,
both under small copses of trees, which could handle 3 tents each (all we
needed now). Since this was a popular destination, we went ahead and
set up the tents (to "reserve" the sites), then laid out some wet clothes
leftover from yesterday’s washings, placed our last remaining food in the
bear box, and headed down for a lengthy swim/wade.
[Photos:
1,
2] Ted and I went swimming, but most of the Scouts just
waded (the water was pretty cold, though not as cold as yesterday’s stream
at Lizard Head Meadows). Still bright and sunny, but clouds were
building.
I sun-dried myself for awhile, then went up and wrote some diary inside my
tent.
[Scouts playing cards at BSL:
Photo] At 5:00, several distant rumbles of thunder
announced
another coming rainstorm. Ted, Mike, and the Scouts
set up the tarp and put all our gear underneath (the reason why we
always
bring an oversized tarp in the first place). We were visited by two
young men who were planning to hike over Jackass Pass and climb Pingora
the
next day - but they had forgotten to bring matches! We gave them
some
matches (and some fuel too) so they could cook their dinner. Matt
and
Charles handled our dinner around 5:30: Soup, chicken pasta, and
cookies.
Matt also
built a fire as we did a
group
cleanup and organized the site for heavy rain (primarily getting
everything
back under the tarp and weighing down the stakes with large rocks).
In fact, the rain turned out to be rather moderate - on and off between
6:45
and 7:45, with some strong winds, then faded away. Matt’s fire
stayed
alive throughout.
At 8:15, we gathered around the fire, with a fantastic "reverse sunset"
reflected
against the clouds over the eastern peaks. I gave a new campfire
story
"The Lost Dog Mine," which was written up in the first ever Boy’s Life
Magazine
in 1910 (the guys really liked it). Ted followed with a ghost story
"The Jenkins Cottage." I ended the night with an impromptu
discussion
of the elements of leadership (Mike told me later that it "blew him away"
- heavy comments indeed from a retired Colonel!) After some
discussion
on how long a hike we had tomorrow, we made a group decision to get up at
5:45, because we had not done our usual re-packing job with things still
being wet. That would give us enough time to arrive at the trailhead
parking lot by 9:30, which is when Mark and Al were scheduled to arrive
with
the vans. Bed at 9:30; lightly overcast with a half-moon. With
Rick on his way to Gannett, and Al and Mark in a hotel somewhere, I have
the tent alone tonight, so lots of room.